Dawa Tashi Sherpa: Triumph and Survival on Everest’s Deadly Slopes By Dr. Vidhu Prakash Kayastha

 

In the heart of Nepal’s Everest region, at 2,300 meters above sea level, lies Sibuje, a remote Sherpa village untouched by the bustling tourist trails of Khumbu. Without roads, electricity, or modern amenities, the village sustains itself through subsistence farming, a way of life that shaped Dawa Tashi Sherpa, born on May 17, 1991. Growing up in a simple farming family, Dawa was no stranger to hard work, plowing fields alongside his parents from a young age—a common expectation for children in rural Nepal. The Sherpa community, known for their mountaineering prowess and cultural resilience, instilled in Dawa a deep connection to the mountains and a strong work ethic.

Education in Sibuje was limited to a primary school, with no secondary facilities nearby. To pursue further studies, Dawa had to leave his family and move to a distant town, a decision that brought emotional and logistical challenges. He could only visit his parents once or twice a year, and the isolation weighed heavily on him. At 12, financial pressures forced him to drop out of school, a setback that could have dimmed his prospects. Yet, Dawa’s ambition to break free from poverty and build a brighter future for his family burned brightly, setting the stage for his remarkable journey.

Determined to support his family, Dawa took up the demanding role of a porter in the Khumbu region, a hub for Everest expeditions. Carrying loads of up to 50 kilograms on rugged, narrow trails, he faced physical exhaustion and harsh conditions, with cold winds biting his face and heavy packs straining his young body. Despite the toll, this work offered a better income than farming, providing a lifeline for his family and fueling his dreams. The resilience he developed during these years became the foundation for his future achievements, teaching him to endure hardship with unwavering determination.

A New Horizon: Mountaineering

After six years as a porter, Dawa sought to transform his life through education and skill development. Recognizing the growing opportunities in Nepal’s booming tourism industry, particularly in the Everest region, he turned to mountaineering. He enrolled in rigorous training programs, mastering rope-tying, high-altitude survival, and other essential skills. His certifications included leadership, basic and advanced mountaineering from the Nepal Mountaineering Association, trekking guide training from the Nepal Academy of Travel and Hotel Management, and specialized courses in first aid, mountain rescue, and ice climbing. Dawa also earned a Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certification from the prestigious NOLS wilderness school, enhancing his expertise.

This training was more than technical; it honed Dawa’s courage and confidence, preparing him for the challenges of high-altitude work. He transitioned from a porter to a mountaineering guide, eventually becoming a high-altitude Sherpa, a role that demanded physical strength, mental fortitude, and exceptional skill. As a guide, he led treks in regions like Khumbu, Annapurna, Langtang, and lower Solukhumbu, and climbed trekking peaks such as Mera, Island, Labuche East, Pokalde, and Yala. His work supported foreign climbers, ensuring their safety and success on some of the world’s most formidable peaks.

Conquering Everest

In 2013, Dawa achieved a monumental milestone by summiting Mount Everest, the world’s highest peak at 8,848 meters. For a young man from a remote village, this was a triumph that resonated deeply, bringing pride to Sibuje and his family. The summit was not just a personal victory but a testament to the Sherpa community’s integral role in mountaineering. Dawa repeated this feat in 2014, further cementing his reputation as a skilled and reliable climber. His achievements earned him international recognition, showcasing his journey from humble beginnings to the pinnacle of mountaineering.

The 2014 Khumbu Icefall Avalanche

On April 18, 2014, Dawa’s life took a dramatic turn. While working on a British Everest expedition, he was in the Khumbu Icefall, a treacherous section of the South Col route known for its unstable ice and crevasses. At 6:45 a.m., a serac, weighing 14,300 tonnes, broke off from Everest’s western shoulder, triggering a massive ice avalanche that swept through the icefall’s “Popcorn Field.” Dawa, tied to a safety rope with 13 other Sherpas, was fixing ropes and ferrying supplies when the avalanche struck. The force tossed him 10 meters, burying him under snow and ice.

When Dawa regained consciousness, he was half-buried, battered, and in excruciating pain. He sustained four broken ribs, a shattered left shoulder, a broken nose, and deep tissue injuries. Tragically, he was the sole survivor of his group, with 16 Sherpas killed in total, making it the deadliest day in Everest’s history at the time. Thirteen bodies were recovered within 48 hours, but three remained buried under 80-100 meters of debris, deemed too dangerous to retrieve. The disaster, detailed in sources like Wikipedia’s 2014 Mount Everest Ice Avalanche, exposed the perilous conditions Sherpas face.

Avalanche Details	Information
Date & Time	April 18, 2014, 6:45 a.m. local time
Location	Khumbu Icefall, Mount Everest
Cause	Serac collapse, 14,300 tonnes
Casualties	16 Sherpas killed, 9 injured
Rescue Efforts	13 bodies recovered, 3 unrecovered
Aftermath	Sherpas halted work for the 2014 season

A Miraculous Rescue and Recovery

Rescue operations in the unstable icefall were fraught with danger, but another Sherpa team located Dawa and promptly arranged for his evacuation. Unable to be carried down the hazardous route, he was airlifted by helicopter to a hospital in Kathmandu. His condition was critical, with injuries threatening not only his mountaineering career but his very identity as a climber. In the hospital, Dawa confronted the extent of his wounds, seeing his swollen body and broken features in a mirror—a moment that brought him face-to-face with his near-death experience.

For nearly a year, Dawa endured grueling physical therapy and medical treatment. His recovery was a testament to his unyielding spirit, supported by dedicated medical professionals and his own determination. However, the injuries left permanent scars; climbing above 6,000 meters caused unbearable pain in his lungs and bones, closing the door to high-altitude peaks like Everest. This loss was a profound emotional blow, yet Dawa refused to let it define him.

Life After the Avalanche

Dawa’s survival became a symbol of Sherpa resilience, as noted in a VOA News article. Reflecting on the tragedy, he recalled his fallen friends, some of whom appeared in his dreams during his hospital stay. The 2014 avalanche sparked global attention on the risks Sherpas face, leading to protests and an unprecedented shutdown of Everest for the 2014 season. Sherpas demanded better compensation, with the Nepalese government initially offering $400 for funeral costs, later increasing life insurance to 1.5 million Nepali rupees ($11,250).

Today, Dawa continues to work as a guide, leading treks and climbs at lower altitudes. In 2021, he returned to Everest, demonstrating his enduring commitment to his profession. He is preparing to guide six Americans up the 6,461-meter Mera Peak, as reported by Sherpana. Dawa advocates for a fund to safeguard Sherpa manpower, highlighting the $11,000 fees paid by foreign climbers and the need for systemic protections.

The Sherpa Legacy

Dawa’s story is inseparable from the broader narrative of Nepal’s Sherpa community, who have been the backbone of Himalayan mountaineering since Tenzing Norgay’s historic 1953 Everest summit. Sherpas undertake dangerous tasks—fixing ropes, carrying gear, and navigating treacherous routes—enabling foreign climbers to achieve their dreams. The 2014 avalanche underscored their sacrifices, prompting changes like a new icefall route in 2015 and increased insurance coverage, though challenges remain.

Sherpa Contributions	Details
Role	Fix ropes, carry gear, and guide climbers
Risks	Avalanches, crevasses, extreme conditions
Economic Impact	$5 million in Everest fees (2023)
Post-2014 Changes	New icefall route, insurance raised to $15,000

Dawa’s journey from Sibuje’s fields to Everest’s summit, and through the crucible of tragedy, embodies the Sherpa spirit of perseverance. His story inspires those in the mountaineering world and anyone facing adversity, reminding us that courage and resilience can overcome even the greatest challenges.

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